Ama Dablam – Climbing in the Himalayas

Climbing Ama Dablam (6,812m)

Technical data

  • When: 8th November to 5th December 2015
  • Route: Ama Dablam – South West Ridge
  • Expedition Leader: Tim Mosedale
  • Staff: 12 (including 4 climbing sherpas, 2 cook and 6 porters)
  • Climbers: 8 (Bill + Matt + Andy + Pepe +Steve + Mark + Sean + Jens)
  • Location: Nepal, Asia
  • Lat/Lon: 27.86062°N / 86.86094°E
  • Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)
  • Difficulty: Alpine 6
  • Grade: VI

Expedition Overview

Ama Dablam 6,812 metres (22,349 ft), one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, is a technical mountain for climbing. Although the height is only 6,812m it requires steep ice, rock and snow climbing. Normally, three camps are set in the approach above the base camp (4,570m), however, only two camps are used to spend the night.

The normal route for climbing is South-West Ridge. The ascent from Base Camp to camp one is considered one the difficult days of the expedition. We follow old grassy moraine ridges passing through a saddle and then turning to north climbing up rocky ground and through boulders to the ridge where camp I is set up. From camp I, we cross a rocky bowl and climb the ridge frequently alternating the sides along the fixed lines to the camp II. Climbing the ridge involves severe rock climbing which leads to the top of a yellow tower. The climbing route here from camp II changes significantly with the steep mixed gully’s of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to the ramp and climbs to an amphitheater and then passes through steep snow and ice runnel and finally, along the snow ridge to reach camp III. The summit from camp III requires steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier.

If you want more information about the traverse visit our dedicated website www.amadablam2015.com

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“When the wind calls, you know, that somewhere in the mountains, it has found the answers that you were looking for. The pull of the horizon overcomes the inertia of reason…And you just have to go.”
(Vikram Oberoi)
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